Learner's Corner - All About Stencils - Part One

This section will lend a helpful hand to anyone who is "Brand-Spank'in" New" to stenciling.  Here you will learn some terms and techniques that will help you along the way.  So, let's get started and begin to learn!  **please bear with me here as I try to get this done as quickly as possible...Just keep checking back and follow along.**

What is a Stencil?



A stencil is a thin sheet of material, such as paper, plastic, cardboard or metal, with letters or a design cut from it, used to produce the letters or design on an underlying surface by applying pigment through the cut-out holes in the material. The key advantage of a stencil is that it can be reused to repeatedly and rapidly produce the same letters or design. The design produced with a stencil is also called a stencil.

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Stencils can be Hand-Cut (using a tool like an Exacto Knife, Scalpel, Sissors..etc) - Machine Cut (larger cutting machines found in factories that uses various types of blades-used often for mass production) or Laser Cut (using the output of a high-power laser at the material to be cut. The material then either melts, burns, vaporizes away, or is blown away by a jet of air.) 

Here at HorseyFeathers, we use 7 Mil Mylar to make all of our stencils.  We offer Translucent (see thru) White, Translucent Blue and Clear Mylar.  The stencils we sell in our eBay Store, our on-line store, HorseyFeathers.com and from our shop here in Indiana will either be Translucent White or Translucent Blue.

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So, What is Mylar?

Mylar is a type of thin, flexible, durable plastic.  Flexible allows you to paint not only on flat surfaces, but round ones too...like Candy and Cookie Tins and Round Paper Mache Boxes!  It comes in variable thicknesses, colors and is washable for reuse at a later time.  It stores well and with proper cleaning and storing of your stencils you can use them over and over and over again!!

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5 Mil vs 7 Mil - Which is better?

I'm not convinced that one thickness is "better" for stenciling than the other.  Both Mil's will stencil just fine...however, 7 Mil Mylar may have more Tinsel strength than 5 Mil Mylar.  Tinsel strength helps to determine the amount of pull on something before tearing away.  A human hair has tinsel strength and so does Tyvek Paper.  Both can be pulled apart, just one is easier than the other. Here, we're talking about a stencil.  We're simply going to use it to paint on something, wash it (maybe) and put it away! 

  Now, let me just say this...If I were to paint a large flower on a privacy fence outside on a windy day, then I would appreciate the added tinsel strength of 7 Mil. If I store my stencils in a big drawer and I'm constantly, sorting thru them to find a certain one, then I'd want 7 mil, especially if they're just loose and not in stencil sleeves.  If I'm doing a project that has lots of very small ( .25" or smaller ) areas to stencil, then I might appreciate the 5 Mil a little better, only because it's thinner, and I might get more of the smaller images...like tiny stars, dots, eyes...etc. onto my project.  Again, that's just my take on mil thickness, respective for use with stenciling.

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My Stencil has "Bridges"?

If your stencil has words, letters or numbers, then it most likely will have bridges!  We know a bridge as connecting two pieces of land together.  So, for simplicity here is the best explanation of a "Stencil-Bridge" and why you need bridges in your stencils...

                                                       ...nuf said!

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See It Done!

Here you can see what some of our stencils designs that we offer, look like when completed!   Items that I have painted, we sell in our HorseyFeathers Shop here in Indiana!

......will add more as time allows!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



Come Gather at Our Table

As promised here are some Oh-So Yummy recipes that have been passed over and over again, across our table!  From our table to yours...enjoy!

Click on link under photos. This will open the recipes in a new window!

Oatmeal Cake

             Click here to enlarge Recipe

Stenciling Tips & Tricks

Thought I would post some Stencil Helpers...These are things I have tried and still do when I stencil.  Also, will include some answers to questions I have been asked that may be helpful to you!  I will continue to add to this list as time permits so just keep checking this post!  I will include all the Tip & Tricks from our monthly newsletter as well! 

• If you use the Cosmetic Sponges for applying paint when stenciling, instead of throwing them away when finished, just sprinkle them with a few drops of water and toss them in a "re-sealable" sandwich bag or just wrap tightly in plain ole' plastic wrap.  They stay fine like this for days. This is helpful when making more than one of the same project.  In the summer, I keep mine in the fridge.  Depending on how much water you added before sealing, you might need to squeeze the sponge with a dry paper towel before stenciling, to remove excess water from the sponge.  Same for my Foam Brushes I use to basecoat my boards with. 

• How do I prep my wood before painting?  I just lightly sand my board with fine grit sandpaper...I don't use any special wood prep on my wood...when stenciling!  The paint acts as a good enough primer for sealing the wood when painting signboards, Blocks and Shelf-Sitters.  When I tole paint, that's a different story!

• What kind of Paint do I Use?  I use Bear Ultra Paint found at Home Depot.  It is the easiest to clean and takes less coats to get the color on the board...even RED paint!  As soon as I am done with my project, I just take the stencil to the sink and run water over the stencil and "work" the paint offwith my fingers....Comes off easily that way.  I've never-ever had to use a brush or other chemicals on my stencils to clean them. 

• How do I stencil on Metal?  I clean the metal with Soap and Water, then I spray the metal with an automotive spray primer found at Walmart.  After the spray-primer is dry I then basecoat with regular paint.

•  When creating a custom color (using your own paint colors you have on hand), always make more than you think you'll need.  Doing this will eliminate the need to try to re-create the color you made the first time around...I learned this one the hard way.... 

Please check back for more Tips & Tricks...Got questions?  Email me!!

About My Blog

For a while I have been thinking about what to create as my "First Blog Post"!  First impressions are important...so they say. But then I had to remind myself that I'm not really out to impress anyone afterall, I simply am who I am.  So with that, let me give you some reason's "Why I began this blog.  Probably, the most important reason is to keep our Customers, Friends and Family "up to speed" on various events and happenings here at HorseyFeathers.  Perhaps the release of new Stencil Designs, Primitive Furniture or other Prim "Goodies" newly listed on our online web and eBay store. 

You see, that's what we do!  First, we design and laser-cut Stencils and list them for sale, so crafters and lovers of "Prim" things can paint Signboards and Blocks/Shelf Sitters to sell in their shops, craft shows or simply add to their Rustic/Prim Decor.  My husband Jim and I Laser-Cut all of the stencils we offer on high quality, transparent white, 7 Mil Mylar.  We also paint our designs and offer them not only in our online stores but also in our physcial shop here in Indiana. We love to build Primitive Furniture...be it, Wall or Floor Cupboards, Shelves, Peg Racks and we make all sorts of other Prim "Must Haves"!

Also, I hope to post recipes, tips on stenciling, photo's of our shop, pets and who knows what you might find here!  So, with that, Welcome to our Blog!